8/4 - 8/7 Wallowa Mountains Backpacking Journal |
This was supposed to be the ideal backpack trail for aging hikers: downhill all the way. Yet after 5 miles (3 uphill) there we were, 3 sixty-somethings, Tim, Eric & I, high on a granite mountain side, looking at a trail that headed straight up. The fourth member of our group, spry & energetic 30-year old Mac, was at the top of Tuck Pass, telling us via walkie-talkie that by his GPS, we 650 feet to climb. Oh, and I was in the midst of a blood sugar crash. My backpack seemed to weigh a ton.
We began the day in Halfway, Oregon, tanking up on carbohydrates for
the trail ahead. We left 2 cars at the lower trailhead near the ghost
town of Cornucopia & headed up to the Summit Point trailhead in
eBoy, with all our gear in the back. After a fairly steep first mile,
the trail entered a long gently sloping mountain meadow, 2 miles of
some of the most pleasant hiking we've experienced in 30 years of backpacking.
Wildflowers were everywhere: lilies, mints, asters & most of all lupines.
I've enjoyed lupines almost everywhere I've traveled this year, starting
in January in Arizona. Now I was noticing these lupines completing their
cycle; most of them were developing pods & small red-brown peas
were starting to dot the ground beneath. Enjoying the views in all directions,
we congratulated ourselves on selecting such a great route.
Leaving the meadows, we began a long traverse across mostly open granite mountainside, all uphill with a few steeper sections. At about this point I realized that I had somehow forgotten to bring any energy bars. I was snacking on gorp, but my feet were getting heavy & I began to fall behind. Occasional breezes helped, but it was pretty warm under the afternoon sun. I rounded a bend & found a minor miracle: a spring gushing from the granite rock. Eric was just finishing replenishing his water, so I used his filter to refill mine. It was probably safe without filtering, but we take no chances. The water was icy & sweet, so refreshing! Around the spring a riot of wildflowers livened the otherwise barren granite: showy magenta Lewis's Monkeyflowers & golden asters among many others.
Eric pushed on & I soon followed, still feeling at low ebb. After
another mile I had to take a lunch break; I was beat. As I finished
& loaded up, I heard Tim calling. At least I wasn't too far behind
the others. After I joined Tim & Eric, we got the news from Mac.
I looked up & wondered how I'd ever get up over that pass.
Mac, an ATV with feet, saved my day, coming back down to carry my pack up to the pass. Without that weight, I had no trouble topping the pass myself, while Mac went back down to see if the others needed help. The view from Tuck Pass, high on a ridge between Cornucopia Peak & Granite Mountain, was spectacular. Seemingly at our feet was our destination, Pine Lakes, while the Wallowas stretched away in all directions. Beyond we could see Baker Valley & the Blue Mountains to the west, Hells Canyon & several Idaho ranges to the east. To the north, Red Mountain's brown basalt peak contrasted with the nearer white granite formations.
The three lakes below us looked like an easy deal, a couple of switchbacks
would get us to the first & the others seemed just beyond. We were
deceived! Look at the lakes photo. The second lake is MUCH larger than
the first & though we didn't realize it, it was over 2 trail miles
away. But at least most of it was downhill. Like horses going to the
barn, we pushed on down the trail with the lake seeming always just
below.
After a final switchback, the trail dropped down nearer the lake to a great campsite. It had all the amenities: fire ring, seating, tent sites & a granite kitchen work area. It was a bit of a walk down to the lake for water, but that's better for bugs & for not polluting the water. The lake itself was lovely. Nestled in a deep granite bowl, its crystalline blue waters reflected the trees, rock & sky. As it was now after 5 PM, fish in the lake were very active. Rings rippled away from frequently rising trout, many leaping clear of the surface. But domestic matters were the priority: setting up tents, filtering water & cooking dinner. We had 2 full days ahead to enjoy the lake & its environs.
It was apparent that we had the lake all to ourselves, except for a
curious doe that wandered around our camp morning & evening. Plus
a few chipmunks. We all slept soundly, though I was awakened at one
point by what in my sleepy state I took to be bear grunts. I sat up
alert & quickly realized it was only Tim, peacefully sawing logs.
In the morning I took a few pictures of the still lake, then soon after breakfast readied my rod for a day of fishing. No one was very energetic after the previous day's 8-mile ordeal; reading, resting & a little exploring were the extent of the day's agenda.
At the lake we frequently saw trout cruising within 10 or 20 feet of
shore. I assumed they were on the prowl for hapless insects blown off
course by occasional breezes, thereby calling for terrestrial imitations
(in fly fishing terminology). I had a variety of flies available: hoppers,
beetles & others that I tied to look like just plain black flies.
It didn't take long to confirm my theory & to show, as I had suspected,
that these were brook trout, which tend to be very prolific in lakes
like these. With the trees nearby, casting was tricky & I soon hung
a couple of flies. Then I moved on down the shore & decided to wade
to a large rock maybe 50 feet out. As I got closer, I was starting to
wonder if I'd have to swim, but I was only in up to my waist when I
hoisted myself up onto the rock. From there I had a clear view into
the lake water all around & well out to where it dropped away into
deep azure depths. I found that if I cast within 20 feet or so of a
cruising brookie, it would immediately swim over to investigate the
ripples & most of the time take the fly. Hoppers & beetles worked
well, but often the hook didn't set. But my black flies seemed irresistible,
with most takes resulting in a hooked trout. Nearly all were in the
9 to 10 inch range, with competition for limited food probably limiting
their growth. I released many, but kept several for dinner.
Back at camp, we studied our maps & reread the newspaper article
that attracted us to this hike. We wondered why we had been so unprepared
for the hike up to Tuck Pass. The topo maps didn't lie, we just had
not read the contours with diligence before setting out. But we decided
that the article downplayed the strenuous middle 3 miles of the hike.
Downhill all the way? I guess it's what we wanted to believe. At least
the trek out should be easier... we hoped.
More fishing, more relaxing, some nature photography, some exploring:
the rest of Friday & all of Saturday were pure re-creation, R&R
of the finest kind. Saturday afternoon another party joined us at the
lake, but since they camped at the far shore, we were barely aware of
their presence. Whoops when they jumped in the lake & occasional
barks from their dog did not qualify as disturbances.
Since Tim had a plane to catch in Boise Sunday evening, we broke camp early next morning & were on the trail before 8. It was indeed all down hill & not terribly steep, so that we made good time. This trail traversed 3 scree slopes with much loose rock on the trail. It was hard on feet & ankles. The first 2 were across granite & the third over loose basaltic shale, all under direct sun. But we crossed all in good shape & long before the heat of the day. Lower down we were treated to views of 2 small, hanging waterfalls high above.
Finally we reached our cars at Cornucopia, 7 plus miles in 3 1/2 hours with only one rest break along the way. We had plenty of time for our traditional shake & burger post-trek lunch before we needed to hit the highways. Tim & Mac drove to the RV to cleanup while Eric drove me back up to Summit Point to retrieve eBoy. As we lunched we all agreed that despite the rigors of the trail in, we were glad we had not tried hiking up from Cornucopia. Uphill every step, 3 long hot traverses, it would have been very tough on the elders in our group. But we also agreed that this was a most satisfactory hike, among the best.